Sewing-machine.



F. ASHWORTH.

SEWING MCHINE.

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Patented Feb. 1, 1916.

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SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED om. s. 1910.

1,169,909. Patented F6111, 1916.

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SEWING MACHINE,

APPLICATION msu ocT. a. 19m.

1,169,909. Patented 1191111916.

I4 SHEETS-SHEET 3.

F. ASHWURTH.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPUCMxoN HLED DCT4 3. 1910.

1,169,909. Patented F6111, 11111;.

I4 SHEETSSHEE! 4. 3y

F. ASHWORTH.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED OCT- 3. IQIO. 1,169,909. 4 Patented Feb,1,1916.

I4 SHEETS-SHEET 5.

llave/woz@ f F. ASHWOHTH.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLvcArloN FILED ocT. 3. 1910.

1,169,909. Patented Feb. 1, 1916.

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F. ASHWORTH.

SEWING MACHINE.

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F. ASHWORTH.

SEWNG MACHINE.

APPLICAUUN man om. 3. |9 1o.

Patented Feb. 1, 1916.

I4 SHEETS-SHEET 9.

F- ASHWURTH.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLlcATxoN f|LD ocr. 3, 1910.

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F. ASHWORTH.

SEWING MACHINE.v

APPLICATION FILED ocT. 3, 1910.

1,169,909. Patented Feb.1,1916,

I4 SHEETS-SHEET II. 12912 1,29. 19.

F. ASHWURTH.

sEwxNG MACHINE.

APPLlCATION FILED OCT- 3. |910.

IZ@ Y F. ASHWORTH.

SEWING MACHINE.

APPLlcAloN HLED ocr. 3. 19111.

1,169,909. Patented F6111, 1916.

14 SHEETS-SHEET I3.

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SEWING MACHINE.

APPLICATION FILED ocT. 3, 1910.

Patented Fab. 1, 1916.

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253' 254 `2.9@ D o f1.9- 34- /42 [Inventar @Ma i g 4 kf/1&3

UNITED STATEs PATENT oEEIoE.

FRED ASHWOBTH, OF BEVERLY, MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR TO UNITED SHOE MACHINERY COMPANY, OF PATERSON, NEW JERSEY, A CORPORATION OF NEW JERSEY.

SEWING-MACHINE.

Application led ctober 3, 1910.

To all whom t may concern.'

Be it known that I, FRED AsHwoRTH, a citizen of the United States, residing at Beverly, in the county of Essex and State of Massachusetts, have invented certain new and useful Improvements in Sewing-Machines; and I do hereby declare the following to be a full, clear, and exact description of the invention, such as will enable others skilled in the art to which it appertains to make and use the same.

The present invention relates to wax thread sewing machines and more particularly to lock stitch outsole shoe sewing machines which employ a curved awl and a curved hook needle.

The object of the present invention is to produce a machine of the class referred to having its various parts constructed and arranged to operate in an improved manner so that the machine can be run at a highI rate of speed without objectionable vibration, and withoutexcessive wear on the parts or liability of breakage and so that the machine can produce as good, and in some respects, better work than the machines of the prior art.

The several features of the present invention will be clearly understood from an inspection of the accompanying drawings in which- Figure 1 is a` view in side elevation of a lock-stitch shoe sewing machine embodying the same `in their preferred form. Fig. 2 is a view in side elevation of the machine looking in the opposite direction from Fig. 1. Fig. 3 is a view in front elevation of the machine. Fig. 4 is a view in sectional elevation of the machine taken on the line 4-4, of Fig. 3. Fig. 5 is a view in sectional elevation of the machine taken on the line 5--5, of Fig. 3. Fig. 6 is a central sectional view of the machine. Fig. 7 is a sectional plan view taken on the line 7-7,`of Fig. 1. Fig. 8 is a detail sectional view illustrating particularly the feeding mechanism. Fig. 9 is a detail vertical sectional view illustrating particularly the manner in which the bobbin case is supported and the mechanism for actuating the rotary loop-taking hook. Fig. 10 is a detail sectional plan view illustrating the thread tension devices and a portion of the pull-cti, take-up and threadmeasuring devices. Fig. 11 is a detail view in side elevation of the presser foot mecha- Specication 0f Letters Patent.

Patented Feb. 1, 1916.

Serial No. 585,116.

nism. Fig. 12 is a sectional plan view of the tension devices and one of the thread locks. Fig. 13 is a detail view partly in section of a portion of the presser foot mechanism. Fig. 14 is a detail sectional view taken on the line 14-14, of Fig. 13. Fig. 15 is a detail view in side elevation of a portion of the edge gage mechanism and the welt channeling or fudge stitch device. Fig. 16 is a detail vertical sectional view of a portion of the feed mechanism. Fig. 17 is a view partly in section of the thread hook and bobbin case on a plane at right angles to the aXis of the hook. This figure also illustrates the manner in which the bobhin thread leads to the work and the manner in which the needle thread is taken from the needle by the hook. Fig. 18 is a view in side elevation of the parts illustrated in Fig. 17. Figs. 19 and 20 are views similar to Figs. 17 and 18 hut showing the parts in a different position. Figs. 21 and 22 are views similar to Figs. 17 and 18, showing the parts in still another position, certain parts which appear in Fig. 18 being omitted in Fig. 22. Fig. 23 illustrates the bobbin case detached from the machine. Fig. 24 is a central sectional view of the bobbin case. Fig. 25 is a central sectional view of the bobbin case taken on a plane at right angles to the plane of Fig. 24. Fig. 26 is a detail view of a portion of the cam track which is carried on the rotary hook and which operates the pins for holding the bobbin case against rotation. Fig. 27 is a detail view partly in section of the needle and awl carriers and their associated parts as viewed from beneath the awl carrier being at the limit of its movement to the left. Fig. 28 is a view similar to Fig. 27 but showing the awl carrier at the limit of its movement to the right. Fig. 29 is a detail sectional view illustrating particularly the awl carrier and its driver. Fig. 3() is a view similar to Fig. 29 but showing the awl in retracted position. Fig. 31 is a detail perspective view of the awl carrier. Figs. 32 and 33 are detail perspective views of the two parts of the awl driver. Fig. 34 is a detail plan view of a portion of the mechanism for releasing the tension on the thread and raising the presser foot when the direction of rotation of the driving shafts is reversed. Fig. 35 is a view in side elevation of the mechanism illustrated in Fig. 34 and also of the thread tension, tension lock and pull-oil'. Fig. 36 is a detail view in side elevation partly in section, of the tension lock and its actuating mechanism and Fig. 37 is a detail view, partly in section, of the needle segment and the needle oiling device.

The work is supported in the machine by means of a work support 1 and presser foot 2. The work support is of the usual construction, being secured to a stationary part of the machine frame and being shaped to enter the crease between the upper and the welt of a shoe so that the shoe, during the sewing operation is supported with the thread surface of the sole uppermost.

The work support is provided with the usual slot through which the needle and aWl operate.

The presser foot is of the usual construction and is secured to the lower end of a presser foot lever 3. During the greater part of the cycle of operations of the machine, the presser foot is held firmly locked against the work so that the work is tightly clamped between the presser foot and work support. During the feeding of the work, however, the presser foot is raised from the work so as to otl'er no resistance to the feeding movement. At the end of the feeding movement the presser foot is released and is pressed yieldingly against the work so that it has an opportunityY to accommodate itself to the thickness of the stock. After being pressed yieldingly against the work the presser foot is positivelyv moved toward the work support a predetermined distance so as to firmly clamp the stock and is then locked in position. The presser foot remains locked until the beginning of the feeding movement when it is again lifted and the cycle of operations repeated. To enable the presser foot to be actuated as above described. the presser foot lever 3 is pivotally mounted on the frame of the machine and is provided with a downwardly extending arm -l which is connected by means of a link 5 to a lever 6. rfhe lever G is pivotally connected below the link 5 to the forward end of a link 7, and is pivotally connected above the link 5 to the forward end of a rod 8. The upper end of the lever ti above the rod 8 is connected by means of a link 9, to the lower end of a lever 10 which is actuated by a suitably shaped cam on one of the driving shafts 1l of the machine. A spring .l2 is connected at its forward end to the rear end of the link 7 and at its rear end to a pin projecting from a rod 13, the arrangement of the spring being such that it tends to pull the link 7 and lower end of the lever 6 rearwardly. The rod 15% is held in the frame of the machine bv means of a split clamp li which allows for an `angular adjustment of the rod to adjust the tension of the spring. The rod S is mounted to slide in a stationary block 15 secured to the frame of the machine and is locked against endwise movement and unlocked during each cycle of operations of the machine by mechanism hereinafter described. The unlocking of the rod 8 occurs at the end of the feeding movement while the presser foot 3 is in its raised position. lhen the rod S is unlocked the spring 12 acting through the link 7 pulls the lower end of the lever (l to the rear thereby swinging the lever about its pivotal connection with the link 9. This movement of vthe lever G pulls the presser foot yieldingly down against the work and moves the rod 8 rearwardly through the block 15. After if necessarythe presser foot has been yieldingly forced into engagement with the work.y the lever 10 is actuated to move the upper end of the lever 6 forwardly and during this movement the rod 8 is locked. During this forward movement of the upper end. of the lever 6, after the rod 8 is locked, the lever swings about its pivotal connection with the forward end of the rod 8 and thus forces the presser foot positively an additional predetermined distance toward the work support to firmly and positively clamp the work. The presser foot is held locked in this .position by the cam actuated lever 1() and by the locking device. for thc rod 8 until the beginning of the work feeding movement. At this time the lever l() is actuated to move the upper end of the lever (S to the rear thereby swinging the lever 6 about its pivotal connection with the rod 8 and positively raising the presser foot from the work. At the end of the feeding movement the rod 8 is unlocked and the presser foot is yieldingly pressed against the work by the action of the spring l2 as above described.

rlhe locking device for t-he rod 8 comprises a nut 1G engaging a steep screw thread upon the rod S and a locking lever 17 arranged to lock the nut against rotation and to unlock the nut so as to permit it to rotate on the rod. The nut 16 is seated in a recess in the block 15, as best shown in Fig. 13, and is held against longitudinal. movement with the rod 8. The lever 17 is provided with an aperture which surrounds the nut 1G, as shown in Figs. 13 and 14, and the edges of this perfo-ration are arranged to engage teeth upon the periphery of the nut so as to lock the nut against rotation. The lever 17 is pivoted upon studs 1S mounted in the block 15, the axis of which extends at right angles to. and passes through the aXis of the rod 8 and nut 11i. The construction and arrangen'ient of the lever 17 are such that when the upper end of the lever is moved to the left, as viewed in Figs. 11 and 13, the nut 1G is unlocked and when the upper end of the lever is moved to the right, the nut is locked. W'hen the nut 16 is unlocked it is free to rotate and permits a rearward movement of the rod 8 under the inflaence of the spring 12. When the nut is locked, however, it prevents any longitudinal movement of the rod 8 and thus permits the presser foot to be actuated by the cam actuated lever 10, as is hereinbefore described. To cause the nut 16 to be locked and unlocked at the proper times during the operation of the machine, the upper end of the lever 17 is connected by means of a link 19 to an arm 2O projecting from a sleeve 21 mounted upon a rod 22 at the rear of the machine.l An arm 23 projects rearwardly from the sleeve 21 and is acted upon by a spring-pressed rod 24, the tendency of which is to raise the arm 23 and through the lever 20 and link 19 move the upper end of the lever 17 to the rear thereby locking the nut 16 against rotation. To move the upper end of the lever 17 in the opposite direction to unlock the nut 1G, a cam actuated lever 25 is mounted upon the rod 22 and is provided with a projection 26 carrying a screw 27 arranged to engage the upper surface of the arm 23 and depress the arm against the action of the spring-pressed f rod 24.

To enable the presser foot to be moved by the'operator with the parts of the machine in any position which they assume during a cycle of operations, and particularly when the parts are in a position to permit the relnoval or insertion of Work, a hand lever is provided and suitable connections whereby a movement of the lever will unlock and raise the presser foot. This lever is indicated at 28 and is pivotally mounted at 29 upon the presser foot lever 3. Below the pivotal connection 29, the lever 28 is provided with a projection 30 to which is pivotally secured the forward end of a link 31.` The rear end of this link is provided with a slot through which passes the pin 32 forming the pivotal connection of the lever 17 with the link 19. The lever 28 is thus connected to the locking lever 17 through the link 31 so that a backward movement of the upper end of the lever 28 moves the lever 17 in a direction to unlock the nut v16. The lever 28 has a limited movement independent of the presser foot lever 3 suflicient to unlock the nut 16. To enable the lever 28 to raise the presser foot lever 3 durmg its continued movement, it is provided `at its lower end with a contact screw 33 which engages the arm 4 of the presser foot lever and raises the presser foot. The lever 28 1s returned to its original position with relation to the presser foot lever when released by the operator by a spring 34 interposed between the arm 4 and the lower end of the lever 28. The return movement of thelever 28 under the force of the spring 34 is limited by a contact screw 35, which engages the upper surface of the lever 3. The

pivotal connection of the link 31 with the projection 30 of the lever 28 is so located that during the independent movement of the lever to unlock the nut 16 the pivotal connection is brought into a position concentric with the pivot of the presser foot lever so that the continued movement of the lever 28 in raising the presser foot does not produce any further movement of the locking lever 17. To Aregulate the movement of the link 31, an adjustable contact screw 36 is mounted in the rear end of the link 31. A Contact screw 37 is also provided for the lower end of the lever 17 to limit its movement under the action of the hand operated lever 28 and to insure its movement into a position to unlock the nut 16. The slot in the i'ear end of the link 31 permits the lever 17 to be actuated automatically during the sewing operation to unlock the nut 16 without producing any movement of the hand operated lever 28.

The work is fed through the machine by means of a curved awl indicated at 38. This awl is secured to the awl carrier 39 by the usual clamp block 40 and is oscillated and moved laterally to feed the work. To provide a feeding mechanism which is light and durable so that the machine can be operated at a high rate lof speed without producing stitches of varymg lengths, the awl carrier 39 is rigidly secured to or formed integral with a pin or rod 41 which forms the pivot of the carrier. This rod 41 is mounted so as to be capable of oscillating and longitudinal movements in two stationary arms 42 and 43 projecting forwardly and upwardly from the machine. frame. These arms are located as close to each other as is permitted by the desired length of bearing for the pin 41, by the desired length of feed movement and by the desired length of the bearing for the needle carrier hereinafter described which is journaled between the arms. The bearings for the rod 41 are necessarily located in close proximity and to the rear of the work support 1 and it is desirable that the space occupied .by the arms 42 and 43 and the parts supported thereby be as narrow as possible in order to give room in which to manipulate the shoe being operated upon. Oscillating movements are imparted to the awl 38, Iawl carrier 39 and pin 41, by mechanism hereinafter described. The pin 41 is moved back and forth longitudinally to impart lateral feeding and return movements to the awl and awl carrier by means of two pivoted levers 44 and 45, the forward ends of which engage slots in bearing pins or buttons 46 provided with conical ends engaging conical recesses in the ends of the pin. The lever 44 is cam actuated as hereinafter described, and the two levers 44 and 45 are connected a link 47, so that the levers are actuated 1n umson and the movements of the pin 41 in both d1- rections are produced by the movements of the levers.

To take up any lost motion between the ends of the levers and the pins and to compensate for any wear, the pivotal connection of the link 47 with the lever 45 is in the form of an adjustable pin 4S. The two levers 4l and l5 are arranged substantially parallel to each other and project forwardly through slots in the arms l2 and 43, which arrangement brings the levers into a comparatively narrow space and does not add appreciably to the width of the space occupied by the forward ends of the arms 42 and 43. The lever 4l is extended rearwardly beyond its pivot and is pivotally connected to one member of a toggle lever 49. The middle point of this toggle lever is connected by a link 5U to one arm of a bell crank lever 5l, the other arm of which is provided with a roll 52 engaging a cam on the shaft ll. which through the connections above described imparts positive movements in both directions t0 the levers -ll and 4.5 and to the pin 4l of the awl carrier.

'lo enable the extent of the longitudinal movements of the pin ll of the awl carrier to be varied as may be desired to produce the required length of stitch` one end of the toggle lever 49 is pivotally connected to a yoke 53 which is pivotally mounted in the machine frame above and below the toggle lever` as best shown in Fig. 16. By swinging this `voke about its pivot the position of the toggle lever 49 is changed so that when the toggle is actuated by the bell crank 5l more or less movement is imparted to the lever 44. and consequently to the pin 4l of the awl carrier. The pivot of the yoke 53 is arranged to be in line with the pivotal connections of the two members of the toggle lever 49 when said lever is in its extreme rearward position, which is the position of the lever after the awl has been moved to the left and is at the limit of its feeding movement. An adjustment of the yoke 53 about its pivot to vary the length of feed docs not therefore vary the position of the awl at the end of its feediner movement so that with all lengths of feedD the awl is always moved to the same point directly in line with the needle.

To enable the length of feed to be readily adjusted by the operator to give the desired number of stitches to the inch either on different shoes or on different parts of the same shoe`y the yoke 53 is provided with an arm 54 connected by a link 55 to one arm of a bell crank lever 5G, the other arm of which is connected by a link 5T to a hand operated lever 5S, which is arranged in convenient position to be moved b v the operator. The hand lever 58 extends over a perforated gage plate 59 on the frame of the machine in which pins 60 may be inserted on each side of the lever 58 to limit the movement of the lever in either direction.

. To secure a finer adjustment of the feed than can be obtained by the use of the pins (i0 alone`r the lever 5S is provided with an adjustable cam disk (il which can be turned into a position to engage a pin Il() on one side of the lever.

To steady the movement of the lever and hold it in adjusted position, a spring pressed plunger G2 is mounted on the lever and is provided with a V-shaped end arranged to engag` a corresponding shaped guideway in thewcdge of the gage plate ott lhe mechanism for oscillating the awl carrier while permitting it to move laterally to feed the work comprises an awl driver mounted concentrieally with the pin ll of the awl carrier. This awl driver is made in two parts (i3 and (il for convenience of assembly, as illustrated in Figs. 32 and 33. Each of these parts is perforated to receive theI pin yall of the awl carrier and the part (l-l is journaled on the pin while. the part G4 is journaled on a boss projecting inwardly from the arm l2. as clearly shown in Figs. 27 and The two parts. when assembled` are secured together by pins G5. The awl driver is held against lateral movement bctween the arms l2 and 43 and has a firm bearing on each side of the portion 3) of the awl carrier so that it can be operated smoothly and easily at a high rate ofA speed. To impart oscillating movements to the awl carrier and at the same time permit lateral movement of the awl carrier. a portion of the hub of the a wl driver is cut away to form surfaces (lf3 and the hub of the portion 3S) of the awl carrier is cut away to form similar surfaces (3T which are engaged by the surfaces 66. lhen the parts are assembled these surfaces are in a plane passing through the axis of the pin 4l of the awl carrier. The surfaces (3G are suflicient in extent to permit the necessary lateral movements of the awl carrier to produce any desired length of feed while the arrangement of the surfaces and (i7 is such that no twisting strain is brought upon the pin 4l of the awl carrier by either the oscillating or lateral movements of the carrier. The mechanism for oscillating the awl driver will be hereinafter described.

The needle Htl of thc machine is a curved barb needle of the usual construction and is secured by a clamping block (il) to a. needle carrier 70. This needle carrier is journaled upon a boss projecting from the arm 43 and upon a reduced portion of the part (i3 of the awl driver, as is clearly shown in Fig. 27 and Fig. 28. r|`he needle is supported by a needle guide Tl secured to a needle guide carrier T2 mounted upon the hub of the needle carrier Td as illustrated in Figs. 2T and 2S. The needle guide is actuated as is customary in lock stitch shoe sewing machines by means of a cam actuated bell crank 73, the forward projecting arm of which is rovided with rack teeth engaging a pinion 4 which is connected to a pinion 'T5 which meshes with gear teeth 76 on the hub of the needle guide carrier. y

In alock-stitch wax thread sewing machine provided with a hooked needle and an awl, it is desirable that as the awl retracts the needle should follow the awl through the work as nearly as possible so as to insure the entrance of the needle into the hole made by the awl. It is also desirable that the movement of the awl should be so timed with relation to the other parts of the machine as to cause the awl to enter the work after the take-up has acted to pull the stitch into the work. The awl is thus out of the work while the stitch is being pulled in and the stock is not crowded over against the thread so as to partially close the last needle hole and prevent the thread from being drawn down properly into the work as would be the case if the awl were in the work during the operation of the take-up. It is also desirable,l

particularly in a machine provided with a curved needle and awl, that the advancing and retracting movements of both the needle and awl be made quickly and that the needle and awl remain in their retracted position for a comparatively long period during each cycle of operations of the machine in order to avoid interference with the other working parts of the machine and give as much time as possible for these parts to operate.

In machines as heretofore constructed it has been found necessary in order to produce these desired movements to drive the needle and awl by means of cams. In the machine illustrated in the drawings irnproved mechanism is provided for actuating the needle and awl, which imparts the desired movements to the needle and awl and which is easier and smoother in operation than the cam mechanism heretofore used and which is capable of being run at a higher rate of speed. This mechanism consists of continuously rotated cranks and connections between the cranks and needle and awl arranged to advance and retract the needle and awl during about a half revolution of the driving shaft, to hold them in retracted position during approximately onehalf of a revolution of the driving shaft, and also operate them in timed relation to the other parts of the machine, cause the awl to enter the Work after the take-up has pulled in the stitch, and cause the needle to follow the awl closely as the awl retracts through the work.

The crank from which the needle is actu-- ated is indicated at 77 and is mounted upon a shaft 7 8 arranged parallel with the shaft l1 and driven therefrom by intermeshing gears 7 9 and 80 the proportion and arrangement of the gears being such that the two shafts 78 and 11 rotate at the same rate of speed but in opposite directions. The connections between the crank 77 and the needle carrier consist of a bell' crank 81, a link 82, connecting the crank to one arm of the bell crank, and a link 83 connecting the other arm of the bell crank to the needle segment. These connections, as will be apparent from an inspection of the drawings, are so arranged that a forward and backward movement is imparted to the needle while the crank 77 is traveling through approximately 1800 and the needle is retained in its retracted position during the remaining 180o of revolution of the crank. This result is due mainly to the arrangement of the bell crank 81 with relation to the needle carrier 70, the arrangement being such that during the oscillating movement of the bell crank in each direction, the pivotal connection. of the link 83 to the bell crank 81 crosses the line joining the pivot of the bell crank and the pivotal connection of the link 83 with the needle carrier. By reasonof this arrangement an idle forward and backward movement is imparted to the needle while it is in its retracted position but this movement is not sulicient to bring the needle into engagement with the work or into a position where it will interfere with the operation of the other parts of the machine.

In a machine provided with a curved needle the distance through which the needle can be moved is limited and with a crank operated needle this idle forward and backward movement is necessary in order to properly time the needle with relation to the other parts of the machine. Also this idle forward and backward movement of the needle permits the needle to be substantially stationary when the loop is taken from the needle by the loop taker which passes the loop over the bobbin thread.

With the arrangement illustrated in the drawings the thread is taken from the needle by the loop taker just as the needle reaches thelimit of its backward movement and before it makes its idle forward movement. By arranging the mechanism for actuating the needle so that the needle is substantially at rest while the loop is being taken, slight changes in the time of operations, due to wear or back lash in the actuating mechanism of the needle and loop taker, do not cause the loop taker either to miss the loop or strike the needle. The crank for actuating the awl is indicated at 84 and is mounted upon the driving shaft 11.- The connections between the crank 8l and the awl driver 64 consist of a lever 85, a bell crank lever 86, a link 87 connecting the crank 84 with one arm of the lever 85, a link 88 connecting the other arm of the lever 85 with one arm of the bell crank S6 and a link 89 connecting the other arm of the bell crank 86 with the awl driver 64. These-connections are arranged to impart an advancing and retracting movement to the awl during approximately 180C of the revolution of the crank 81 and'to hold the awi in retracted position during the remaining 180o of revolution, an idle forward and backward lnovement, however, being imparted to the awl when in retracted position by reason of the fact that during each oscillation of the lever 85, the pivotal connection of the link 88 with the lever crosses a line joining the pivot of the lever with the pivotal connection of the link 88 with the bell crank 86. Vith a crank operated curved awl` the movement of which is necessarily limited, this idle forward and backward movement of the awl permits the awl to be properly timed with relation to the other parts of the machine.

lVith the construction illustrated in the drawings the awl, while in engagement with the work and during its feeding movement, remains substantially stationary, having but a slight forward and backward movement so that the awl tends to raise the work from the work support and facilitate the feeding of the work.

The needle is provided on its outer side with a thread receiving barb or hook. After the needle passes down through the work the thread is laid in the barb of the needle by means of a thread finger 90 and a looper 91. These parts have substantially the same motions and mode of operation as the thread arm and looper ordinarily used in curved hook needle lock stitch machines. These parts are, however, mounted in the machine in a somewhat different manner and are actuated by a novel mechanism.

The thread arm 90 is carried upon the upper end of an arm which is pivoted at its lower end to the frame 0f the machine. This arm is pivotally connected to the forward end of an inclined slide 9'2 mounted in the frame of the machine and pivotally connected at its rear end toacam actuated lever 98 by means of a link 94, the cam actuating the lever 93 being mounted upon the driving shaft 11.

The looper 91 is provided with a shank which is clamped in a socket formed in the forward end of a link 95, the construction being such as to permit the longitudinal adjustment of the looper shank in the socket. The forward end of the link 95 is connected by means of a link 96 to the forward end of a lever 97, the rear end of which is engaged by a cam on the driving shaft 11 while the rear end of the iink 95 is pivotally connected to one arm of the bell crank 98, the other arm of which is engaged by a cam also mounted upon the driving shaft 11. The link 95 carrying the looper is thus supported so that it can be moved longitudinally and laterally, the longitudinal movements being produced by the bell crank 98 and the lateral movements being produced by the lever 97. The cams which actuate the bell crank 98 and the lever 97 are so shaped that the looper is given the usual movements in this class of machines to present the thread to the thread arm and then to lay the thread in the barb of the needle.

The loop taker of the machine by which the loop of thread drawn through the work by the needle i's passed over the locking or bobbin thread is of novel construction and is arranged and operated in an improved manner. This loop taker is in the form of a continuously rotating hook and is arranged to pass the loop of needle thread around a stationary bobbin case without itself passing through the loop. This hook is rotated continuously at a uniform rate of speed by a simple and 4compact mechanism and is so constructed and arranged as to permit the use of simple and etiicient means for supporting the bobbin ease and permitting the loop of needle thread to be passed around the case. The hook can be operated at a high rate of speed without liability of injury to its actuating mechanism and without setting up objectionable vibrations in the machine frame and the parts supported thereby. Furthermore, the hook is placed in the machine in such a position with relation to the other operating parts and particularly the needle and work support, that the hook and its actuating mechanism does not interfere with the manipulation of the work by the operator or its ready inspection at all times, that the hook draws out as short a loop as possible in passing the loop of needle thread over the bobbin case, that comparatively simple mechanism is required to present the needle loop in position to be taken by the hook and that the needle loop can be readily cast from the hook after the loop has been passed around the bobbin case.

As illustrated in the drawings, the rotary hook, indicated as a Whole by the reference character 99, has the general form of a cylinder which is rotatably supported on the frame of the machine by means of two plates 100 and 101 each of which is provided with a semi-circular edge extending half way around the hook and engaging a guiding groove or raceway formed in the exterior surface of the hook, as is clearly shown in Figs. 9 and 17. The hook is rotated continuously from the shaft 78 of the machine by means of a bevel gear 102 meshing with bevei gear teeth cut upon the exterior surface of thehook, a shaft 103 to the forward end of which the gear 102 is secured and a bevel gear 104 secured to the rear-end of the shaft 103 and meshing with a similar gear on the shaft 78. The shaft 103 is 

